New Products Kakadu Plum and Vitamin E Oil coming soon
By Dr Hannah Sivak
Talking about today’s miracle product, here comes Kakadu Plum! This novelty ingredient is a perfect example of advertising in skin care. It comes with the story: a Beverly Hills doctor trekking the jungle and discovering a fruit that instantly erases hyperpigmentation. However, the advice on their webpage talks about results in several weeks, and this makes more sense. Antioxidants and inhibitors of enzymes involved in melanin synthesis will take weeks for improvements, because their effect is on future synthesis of melanin, not on existing melanin.
Figure: Kakadu plums (Terminalia ferdinandiana)
Kakadu Plum contains vitamin C, about 3 gm per 100 gm fruit. This is very important for the original Australian aboriginal population that needed a source of vitamin C, but for the skin care industry it is no big deal. Why? Vitamin C content of ascorbic acid is 100 gm per 100 gm. What else is there in kakadu plum? Not much is known because it is only recently that kakadu became an object of scientific interest. It contains polyphenols, and it is in this fraction that we should expect to see specific effects, not in the vitamin C content.
We offer Kakadu, not as an alternative to ascorbic acid or Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, but as a novel ingredient that can be used in a supplementary role. Although it will not provide miracle results, there is something nice to be said about being able to tell your friends that you made your own Kakadu cream at home.
Usage: Use at 0.1% in cream (0.6 grams in 118 ml). Solubility in water based serum is low. Do not use in oil based serums.
Mohanty, S., Cock. IE (2012). The chemotherapeutic potential of Terminalia ferdinandiana: Phytochemistry and bioactivity Pharmacognosy review, 6: 29-36.
Tan, AC Konczak, I, Ramzan, I, Sze, DMY (2011)
Antioxidant and cytoprotective activities of native Australian fruit polyphenols . Food Res. Intl. 44: 2034-2040.
Tan AC, Konczak I, Ramzan I, Zabaras D, Sze DM. (2011) Potential antioxidant, antiinflammatory, and proapoptotic anticancer activities of Kakadu plum and Illawarra plum polyphenolic fractions. Nutrition and Cancer. 63: 1074-1084.
Vitamin E Oil - Mixed Tocopherols 95%
Mixed Tocopherols are fat soluble antioxidants. Based on the D-alpha Tocopherol level in the 95% Natural Mixed Tocopherols, the IU activity is estimated at 125 IU per gram.
Amongst all the novelty of the cosmetic ingredient industry there exists the stand-by antioxidant Vitamin E. Vitamin E is actually a class of different tocotrienol and tocopherol compounds that all exhibit the same type of functionality, although at differing levels of effectiveness. In fact, vitamin E is considered the primary, lipid-soluble antioxidant utilized by skin that is present in the lipophilic portion of the cell membrane. Structurally, the molecule is composed of hydrocarbons with a chromanol ring and either a saturated phytol side chain or 3 unsaturated residues. This antioxidant works best in the D-α-tocopherol form, as this is the particular confirmation where three methyl groups, as well as a hydroxyl group, are attached to a benzene ring and exhibit the most activity against oxidative stress.
Vitamin E is capable of stopping the chain reaction that occurs when a radical oxidative species (ROS*) is present in the lipid membrane. Normally when an ROS* reacts with a fatty acid, the product of this reaction then in turn reacts readily with singlet molecular oxygen, creating a peroxyl-fatty acid radical-- or another ROS*. This string of reactions continues until an accumulation of ROS* occurs and the membrane is damaged by the high concentration of unstable species. Vitamin E, however, is able to stop this cycle by reacting with the peroxyl-fatty acid radical at a faster rate than the radical is able to react with a lipid substrate. The mechanism is unusual for an antioxidant, as it is not utilizing an enzyme in any way and is naturally very fast. This ability is also why the topical application of vitamin E can help skin fight the exposure to ROS* through day-to-day living.
Use at 1% (1.2 ml in 118 ml) in creams or oils. Do not use in water based serums without an emulsifier.